
WILLIAM H. RAU 

PHILADELPHIA 
- 1891 



A 



Descriptive Reading 



ON 



Calcutta and Bombay 






f« 



ILLUSTRATED BY TWELVE LANTERN 



^^ SLIDES 



^^^ ^y RIGHT 






WILLIAM H. RAU 

PHILADELPHIA 
1891 



Copyright, i8gi, by William H. Rau. 



A:0 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



1. Panorama of Calcutta, 

2. Interior Compound Baboo's Home. 

3. Mullick's Ghat, Hoogley River. 

4. The Great Banyan. 

5. Burmese Pagoda, Eden Gardens. 

6. Bridge and Foliage, Eden Gardens. 

7. Native Bungalow, Royal Botanical Gardens. 

8. Punjab Court, (Calcutta Exhibition). 

9. Esplanade Road, Bombay. 

10. The High Court, Bombay. 

11. Public Works Office. 

12. General View of Elephanta Caves. 



CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 



The romance that surrounded that India that 
bounded the mental horizon of Columbus has not 
decreased in proportion as our knowledge respecting 
it has broadened. Say, rather that since 1858, when 
England became the ruler of India, our curiosity in 
that direction has been on the increase ; and nowhere 
will we be apt to find more characteristic Indian life 
than in Calcutta, its principal city. 

1 . Panorama of Calcutta — Situated in a com- 
manding position on the banks of the Hoogley river 
— one of the numerous mouths of the Ganges, it 
holds the traffic of the Bengal Bay within it hands. 
Calcutta, although architecturally considered magni- 
ficent, was at one time one of the most unhealthy 
spots in India ; the country being flat with here and 
there extensive muddy lakes breeding malaria and all 
manner of diseases; but these local disadvantages being 
partially removed, the city has gained for itself the 
title of ''The City of Palaces." The European por- 
tion of the city extends about five miles along the 
river ; a noble and much frequented esplanade divides 
the town from Fort William. Opposite the Fort 
stands the Government House, said to have been 
erected by the Marquis of Wellesley ; near by, in 
close succession, are the Town Hall, Treasury and 
High Court. Immediately beyond the Fort, the fine 

(5) 



6 CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 

steeple of the Cathedral is seen, rising pure and high 
above the surrounding foliage. The native portion 
of the town is a direct contrast to the European por- 
tion, being a succession of huts made of mud or 
bamboo, in which three-fourths of the population 
reside. The streets are more or less narrow, filthy, 
unpav^d and unswept. Within this wretched vicinity 
are not less than twenty bazaars, extending from one 
end of the native quarter to the other, through which 
the teeming population seem to surge and flow, un- 
changed through all changes of governors, constitu- 
tions and rulers. Edwin Arnold says of Calcutta, 
that it is a great and busy Indian Liverpool, built on 
a swamp and dignified with the style and title of cap- 
ital by reason of having become the seat of govern- 
ment. 

2. Interior Coinpouucl Baboo's Home. — In pass- 
ing along the Esplanade one comes in contact with 
all sorts and conditions of people ; the bearded Mo- 
hammedan, the turbaned Hindoo, the gaily dressed 
English residents, and now and then a white-robed, 
bare-headed Baboo. These white-robed clerks abstain 
from stockings, but wear patent-leather shoes of Eng- 
lish manufacture, instead of the usual native slipper, 
in consequence of a decree which allows such shoes 
to be kept on in any court, but only Europeanized 
Hindoos would wear leather as it is considered im- 
pure, being made of dead beasts. The view shows the 
interior compound or grounds of a Baboo's home. 
The grounds seem to be very well kept, and the long 
line of steps forms an imposing entrance to the arched 
doorways adorned by massive pillars. 



CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 7 

3. Mullick's Ghat, Hoogley Kiver. — A visit to 
Calcutta would not be complete without having seen 
the bathing ghats. At sunrise they present a most 
novel sight. It is remarkable that the two Oriental 
systems of religion,the Hindoo and the Mohammedan, 
should blend personal cleanliness with religious rites, 
making cleanliness, not next to godliness as we would 
have it, but synonomous with it. The view here of 
Mullick's Ghat, on the Hoogley, shows the young and 
old of both sexes clothed in white muslin, a shade 
thinner than our ordinary white cloth. The women 
wear a large square piece or over-garment called a 
chudder ; the priests keep their shoulders covered by 
a fcAv yellow threads passed over one arm and under 
the other. When the disc of the sun is fairly above 
the horizon, the crowd rush into the water with appar- 
ent glee, each carrying a large or small brass pot 
called a *'lota," used for dipping and pouring out the 
holy water, while looking at the sun, which they do, 
as if praying to it rather than to the river. Some 
carry rice, others, a sort of rosary made of natural 
yellow flowers or white lilacs, which they seem to 
count while praying, and then cast into the river. 
When the devotions are concluded they wash their 
outer garments, fill their lota pots and take home the 
holy liquid to drink and to cook their rice, but should 
the shadow of an unbeliever fall upon it, they throw 
it away as unclean. 

4. The Great Banyan. — Characteristic of Indian 
vegetable luxuriance is the marvelous banyan tree ; its 
main trunk reaching 50 feet in circumference, seems 
still dissatisfied with its size and so sends out branches, 



8 CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 

which spreading outward and then earthward burrows 
into the ground, takes root and forms new roots, 
making a charming filigree of leaves, through which 
the sun in vain attempts to shed his beams. So nature 
reproduces this wondrous growth, until the banyan 
tree frequently covers many hundred feet in circum- 
ference. 

"Its branches shoot to heaven and sink to earth, 

Even as the deeds of men, which take their birth from qualities." 

The great glory of the botanical gardens is the 
superb banyan tree, it is nearly loo years old; 200 air 
roots have descended to the earth from beneath its 
mighty branches. Its outside circumference, 800 feet, 
is so remarkable that our imagination can scarcely 
picture its vastness. 

5. Burmese Pagoda, Eden Oardens. — Within 
easy access of all are the pretty Eden Gardens. The 
Burmese Pagoda, reaching almost to the height of the 
tall palm trees, forms the most prominent feature. 
This many-spired building consisting of seven stories, 
each one smaller than its predecessor, though so 
beautifully proportioned as to form a perfect slant 
from top to base, is a dainty and picturesque construct- 
ion, light and airy enough in its architecture to har- 
monize with its sunny surroundings; with the tropical 
vegetation as a background and the winding river in 
full view, giving by reflection a double picture, forms 
as a whole a most pleasing view of one of the suburbs 
or picnic grounds, as we would call them of the resi- 
dents of Calcutta. 



CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 9 

6. Bridge and Foliage, Eden Gardens. — A 

closer inspection of the gardens shows denser foliage 
and many beautiful views. Refreshing ornamental 
waters form a charming foreground to the surround- 
ing government buildings. The winding waters, the 
varied foliage, the amphitheatre of handsome edifices, 
the forests of masts from the shipping in the near dis- 
tance, the guns of Fort William overlooking the ani- 
mated scene forms a very pleasing impression. The 
substantial bridge almost concealed by the mass of 
foliage, only enhances the beauty of the scene, and 
we can almost feel the rays of the Indian sun tem- 
pered into balmy breezes by the waving palm trees. 

7. Native Bungalow, Koyal Botanical Gardens. 

— Follow me to the Royal Botanical Gardens and I 
will show you still another scene of luxuriance and 
beauty. They are situated beyond the village of 
Seebpur, on the bank of the Ganges. The drive over 
the Hoogle}^ bridge is dusty and without interest, so 
we will take the pleasantest route which is by boat 
down the river to the Garden Ghat. The garden 
fronts the river for a mile and is 272 acres in extent. 
A pretty lake winds through the gardens, in which is 
found every variety of indigenous water plants, and 
fine specimens of the great Victoria Regia lily. The 
palmetum is singularly beautiful, and is well planted 
with a great variety of palms, not merely those pecul- 
iar to India, but others from all parts of the world. 
The orchid houses are renowned in horticulture and 
well deserving of the praise lavished upon them, for 
when the season is at its height, the houses are one 
mass of bloom. The avenues of palms, mahogany 



TO CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 

and deodar, are of surpassing loveliness, but the 
great glory of the gardens, and the pride of the Hin- 
doos is the superb banyan tree already described. 
Wandering through the gardens, constantly finding 
new beauties, we come upon a bungalow or native 
house, picturesquely situated under over-arching 
trees, its whole exterior carefully thatched, for in 
such a climate no stronger protection from the ele- 
ments is needed. The bungalow is a one-storied 
building with a high sloping roof. The furniture of 
the interior is simple and unpretentious, but is very 
cumbrous looking. One apartment, that designed 
for casual European visitors, is more elegantly fur- 
nished, but the general apartments contain few lux- 
uries. 

8. Punjab Court, (Calcutta Exhibition). — From 
these world-famed gardens we wend our way to the 
Punjab Court at Calcutta. The term "Punjab" liter- 
erally means the union, or meeting of the five rivers, 
so that the term is applied in India to the northern 
part or that watered by the Indus, Ganges, and their 
tributaries. The Punjab Court at the Calcutta Exhi- 
bition, presented a striking appearance. The exquis- 
itely carved tables and cabinets, in which the work is 
as dainty as a lace fabric, the statuettes, unique and 
beautiful vases, the brilliant artistic draperies all seem 
so effectively arranged that we are loathe to leave 
them. The Mosaic work here exhibited is fully equal 
to some of the rich Florentine gems, while our Euro- 
pean friends admit themselves vanquished when their 
carvings are placed in contrast with Indian workman- 
ship. 



CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. II 

9. Esplanade Koacl. Bombay.— Now, that we 
have seen the principal places of interest in Calcutta 
we will travel to Bombay and view one of its princi- 
pal streets— the Esplanade Road. The statue, which 
in this view, is its most prominent feature, is that of 
the Empress of India, and is at the junction of the 
Esplanade and Hornby Roads. Turning down the 
Esplanade, at the angle formed by the two roads, is 
the Cathedral High School, a fine Gothic structure; 
at the end of this road is the Mechanic's Institute, the 
gift of the Sassoons. Turning to the right, and fol- 
lowing Esplanade cross road, we find at our right the 
Francis Xavier College, beyond which, opposite the 
Free Church, is the General National Hospital. The 
road ends at the Crawford Market, where, if we were 
there, we should surely stop to purchase fruit. Re- 
turning by Market Road, we find the school of Art 
on the right and the Salvation Army headquarters on 
the left. Presently the Great India Peninsula Railway 
is reached, in front of which is the well-managed 
European Hospital. Hornby Row reaches back to 
the statue of the Empress, and a turn to the left, along 
Church Gate Street, opens out into Ephistone Circle, 
the heart of the business quarter, in which we find 
the Town Hall, Cathedral and most of the leading 
banks. 

lO. The High Court, Bomhay.— Before leaving 
the city proper, which is like Calcutta, divided into 
two parts, a native and European quarter, we must 
pay a visit to the High Court. It stands among a 
line of magnificent buildings and presents a most im- 
posing view. The huge building is 560 feet long, and 



12 CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 

is said to have cost £164,000. One can almost imagine 
the varied street scenes that those numberless arched 
windows afford, especially in a city where are to be 
found specimens of every race and nation of the East. 
The Arab from Muscat, Persians from the Gulf, 
Afghans from the northern frontier, Negroes of Zan- 
zibar, and Malays and Chinese, all thronging the busy 
streets, and now and then making way for the innum- 
erable carts drawn by the patient, sleepy-eyed oxen, 
threading their creaking way amid tram-cars, buggies, 
victorias, palanquins and handsome English car- 
riages. 

11. Public Works Office.— The Public Works 
Office, a much smaller building, in the Venetian 
Gothic style of architecture stands next to the High 
Court. The main building, with its gabled tower- 
stands out in bold relief against the clear blue sky, 
and in noting its lighter architecture, in contrast to 
its next door neighbor, one almost feels the sun 
brighten, and involuntarily our thoughts put on a 
lighter tone and we look with pleasure at this useful 
building, surrounded, as it is, by an enclosed park, 
beautifully kept. The building is airy and comfort- 
able. There are several entrances to the building, 
each having a broad, comfortable flight of steps ; here 
and there at the upper stories, well-shaded verandas 
are found, each lending its proportion of grace to the 
general effect. The interior is commodiously furnished 
and well arranged for the dignitaries and clerks, who 
make this departmental work their daily occupation. 
A few fine specimens of trees give to the building an 
additional air of comfort and beauty. 



CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 1 3 

12. General View ot Elephanta Caves. — Every- 
body who comes to Bombay pays a visit to the Island 
of Elephanta, to inspect the cave cut in the rock, 
which is one of the most striking sights in the coun- 
try. The name of the cave was anciently Gharipoore, 
or ''The Town of the Rock," or according to some, the 
town of purification. The principal cave is of great 
extent, excavated out of the solid rock. The colossal 
columns of the portico seem to hold up the mountain 
above them ; on each side of the entrance great creep- 
ers come down in heavy masses over the mountain ; 
rows and rows of columns handsomely ornamented 
appear within, growing beautifully less in the distance 
and vanishing amid gloomy shadows and a thousand 
fantastic shapes. The gateway leads directly through 
the heart of the mountain and the different shrines 
which contain objects of Hindoo worship, are placed 
on each side. In the centre there is seen, by the light 
of torches, a majestic altar of stone, partially in a 
state of decay, supporting a gigantic bust of three 
noble heads, the Hindoo Trinity of Siva, Vishnu and 
Brahma to whom this cavern temple is said to be dedi- 
cated and who is seen in another compartment with 
Parvati, which in Sanskrit signifies happiness. Pleas- 
ure is seen on the right. In a hand outstretched from 
the altar he grasps a cobra, with its hood extended wide 
in his hand, transforming the character of the symbol 
into that of the avenger or destroyer. On the left 
side of Siva is Vishnu in the grand character of pre- 
server. The shape of the large cave is cruciform and 
resembles the plan of an ancient Basilica. The mas- 
siveness and strength of the pillars which find their 
deep foundations in the earth below, supporting the 



14 CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY. 

elephant-shaped mountain above, is rendered more 
striking by a thousand and one scenes of Hindoo my- 
thology, in part solemn and majestic, and in part gro- 
tesque and absurd that fills every part of the walls. 
Everywhere are curious and venerable specimens of 
sculpture, which though shamefully mutilated in parts, 
still show so high an advance in art, that one half 
expects the stone figures to speak. 



